What Is A Stator In A Motorcycle – This is a quick (but comprehensive) guide on how to test a motorcycle charging system on any motorcycle – whether you buy it or own it.
Charging system for a motorcycle is very simple. Once you know how a motorcycle charging system works and what can go wrong with it, it’s easy to find faults.
What Is A Stator In A Motorcycle
And since failures are not uncommon, knowing how to fix a charging system can be the difference between getting 200km home or being lost in the middle of nowhere.
How To Test Your Motorcycle Charging System — A Comprehensive Guide
It could also mean avoiding buying a dud or knocking $500 off the asking price of a motorcycle.
Well, I am. That’s why I created this page – as a rebellion. I like to learn and share the things that may be useful to others. If you like what you’re reading here and you’re as curious as I am, you might want to know when I’ll be publishing more. (Check out the latest one to get an idea of what you’ll see.)
In short, there are only five main electrical components in a motorcycle charging system (which fail regularly).
When something goes wrong with your motorcycle’s charging system, this is one of those parts that has failed. The important part is finding out which one failed.
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Many times when asking about a motorcycle charging system on forums, people will say “dead battery” and cite examples of when they bought a battery and it was dead from the store. I’m sure this happens and sometimes they may be right. But don’t buy a battery unless you’re sure it’s the culprit. Better if he’s dead, you need to know what killed him. It is better not to just “throw spaghetti on the wall”. It’s a waste of spaghetti.
The main things I have seen change on today’s motorcycles is that the stator coil is not driven directly by the engine and instead is in another unit (the alternator) driven by belt, just like in a car. I have recently seen this in BMW R1200* engines and I have also written a guide on changing the alternator belt here.
There are several key signs of a bad motorcycle charging system. Any of these could mean that something in your tax system is broken.
Basically, when your motorcycle won’t charge (or shuts off), it means one of the above components has failed!
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Failure of a component of a motorcycle’s charging system occurs in a number of different ways, all very common:
Other than that, you only need common tools, like those in your tool kit. You need to get to the battery and take a few things out. I just want to say that you need it
Before you do any testing on your motorcycle charging system… use the maintenance charger you bought from Amazon or eBay. Leave it overnight.
You must charge your battery before performing other tests or your results may not be meaningful.
Easy Troubleshooting: Motorcycle Stator Testing
To charge your battery you usually have to remove the seat and the windshield if you have them. Sometimes you have to take the thought away – I hope it’s not you!
Mental note: I am so thankful to have a motorcycle that has a hood (to keep me warm) but is a bikini top so I can access everything.
Once your battery is charged, you are now ready to start testing your motorcycle charging system! Test the battery voltage using your multimeter.
Before you buy a new battery – if your motorcycle was behaving normally and suddenly you need a new battery… ask yourself: “Why is my battery dead?”
Besides This Being Old Af, Does This Stator Look Bad?
If it’s just old – like the battery has never been replaced, or it’s more than 5 years old – you can feel safe replacing the battery.
But if a bad regulator/corrector is fried, you just fry a new one again, which wastes time and money. Reg/rec test – we’ll do that next time.
Now turn on the motorcycle, let it warm up a bit, and check the battery voltage again.
Is the voltage less than 12V at idle? Then something is not producing enough power. You may have a short somewhere in the system that is drawing too much current, you may have a faulty alternator/stator coil, or your reg/rec may have failed completely.
Top 10 Most Common Symptoms Of Bad Motorcycle Stator
Is the voltage higher than 15V at 3,000 rpm? If so, your regulator/rectifier may be partially terminated. You can test it a little more (that’s a story for another day). But you can either bring it in or take a pot-shot and buy one and replace it. At worst, you’ll need that super later (they all die eventually).
To dive deeper into the part of your motorcycle charging system that is malfunctioning, check if your alternator/stator coil is working or if your reg/rec works as intended.
Stator coil removed on my old Ducati Monster 900. I was really convinced this was the problem before I went to this length!
You need to determine if your generator/stator coil is producing enough current. You can usually tell if it is by testing the output voltage.
Stator Styles And Wiring
The stator coil is a coil (or series of coils) that sits around the rotor. The rotor is simply a magnet attached to the motorcycle’s crankshaft.
When the engine of the motorcycle turns – ie. when it’s on (or if you press start!) – the rotor magnets spin. The magnets rotate within the stator coils. The changing magnetic field caused by the rotating magnets induces a current in the coils. It works in the opposite direction that an electric motor does.
To test your stator coil, test if it is producing enough voltage. If so, that’s usually a sign that it can handle the load. (Not necessarily, but almost always.)
First, find the output of your stator coil. Usually a plug comes out of the whole area.
What Is A Stator?
I don’t know where the output of the stator coil is? On longitudinally mounted engines, such as V-couplers, the clutch is usually found on one side of the engine and the stator on the other. You know the clutch side because the clutch cable and actuator go to it. You know the stator side because it’s the opposite! You may find the plugin on that page.
On transverse engines, like my BMW or many inline-four motorcycles, it’s less obvious. There it is easier to find the regulator/rectifier (under the seat, often) and check the voltage there.
If you still haven’t found any problems, you can test with the engine running. You have charged the battery so it should start.
You can now test the voltage between the terminals of the stator coil at 3,000 rpm. Depending on your motorcycle, you should get a reading somewhere between 20 and 50 volts.
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The voltage you get is not important (if it is not less than 15 – at 3,000 rpm you should definitely have enough voltage to charge the battery, ie more than 15). The most important thing is that a) all terminals have a voltage reading and b) they are all roughly the same (if you have a polyphase alternator).
Some older generators are only two-phase and have only two output wires. With them, this is the only voltage you measure.
Most modern generators are three phase and have three output wires. So you need to measure A-B, BC and AC. In this case, your voltage should be equal.
These often fail on older motorcycles because they have a very hard life. For millions of motor movements, they need to get a large voltage, convert it to DC, then cut off the excess, cool it for heating.
Motorcycle Alternator Vs. Stator: What’s The Difference?
This is what regulators/rectifiers do (they’re two things, but they’re usually in one unit because they’re easy to build that way – they’re made with high-width diodes ).
The rectifier converts AC voltage to DC. This is the same as any power adapter in your house, your phone charger. The AC voltage coming out of the outlet needs to be converted to DC to charge your devices. AC can only be used for things that only provide heat or light (where the direction of the current doesn’t matter), such as ovens, toasters, kettles and lamps.
A “full wave” rectification circuit. Whether the AC swing is up or down, it produces a positive voltage.
The regulator takes the voltage down from high levels to levels where it won’t freeze your battery. The alternator produces large voltages – higher when your engine revs higher. The regulator removes the excess and only gives your battery what it needs. Sometimes this cuts over 70% of the available voltage!
Oem Stator/magneto For Rps Viper 150
The sad thing about it is that it just throws away too much power as heat. That’s why managers are increasing. They get over it.
When a regulator fries, you get either a) no voltage (a flat battery) or b) too much voltage (a fried battery, which also means a flat battery).
That’s why if you have a dead battery and you plug it in without checking your reg/rec, you can freeze the battery again.
To test the regulator/corrector: Well, if
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