How To Shift Gears In A Motorcycle

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How To Shift Gears In A Motorcycle – When it comes to smooth riding on a motorcycle, Mr. Chow from The Hangover would probably ask – “Did you shift gears?”

Most motorcycles on the market have manual transmissions, meaning you shift the gears yourself rather than relying on vehicle mechanics to do it for you, and they include a lever called a clutch lever. To keep things simple, I’ll focus on clutch shifting on a 6 speed motorcycle (some have 4 or 5 speeds – roughly the same shift pattern without the single gear).

How To Shift Gears In A Motorcycle

How To Shift Gears In A Motorcycle

Essentially, your bike will tell you to shift based on the sound and response of the engine – this is how I like to teach my students, because relying on the tachometer (which shows the engine’s rpm or rpm) is another thing that you is seen away from the road.

How Do You Shift Gears On A Motorcycle?

It’s extremely important to keep your eyes on the road – especially when you’re just learning – and the years on the road are just as important as the difference between making it home or ending up 6 feet underground in a wheelchair.

Plus, learning to read, listen, and feel a motorcycle can also tell you when something is off and doesn’t sound the way it normally does or should, or if something isn’t working right (which means you might want to have someone check – preferably someone who is a licensed motorcycle mechanic).

Shifting in motorcycles is sequential. This means the lowest gear is 1st, then neutral is half a click up between 1st and 2nd (basically up or down, N or neutral is always between 1st and 2nd with one exception which is I will touch at the end of this article.

So the pattern of a 6-speed motorcycle should look like this: 1, N, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. If you like MotoGP-style shifting, this pattern is now reversed when you move up one to go first, and down to 2-6 (again all in consecutive order, just the opposite of the normal innings style). Please see my previous guide for more details on exchange types.

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I have a simple saying: if the engine sounds high, shift higher (higher gear) and if the engine sounds slow and low (low tone), shift lower. It’s a very easy way to remember when to change, and it’s my basic healthy rule.

To do it right there are a few different methods that people teach, but for beginners I like to stick to the simplest way and as you know more about your bike mechanically, with muscle memory and riding time, experiment with what you learn, it won’t hurt.

For example, when you’re riding in first gear and shifting into second, you need to give the bike a reason to shift. Ideally, you’ll have good throttle response while the clutch is disengaged, but the engine won’t scream at you on what they call redline. This is where you hit the engine’s RPM limit, and it bounces back with something called a limiter so that your engine doesn’t exceed its capabilities and drastically shorten its life.

How To Shift Gears In A Motorcycle

If you engage too early and stall the motorcycle, meaning the engine doesn’t have enough power to do what you told it to do, simply grab the clutch lever on the handlebars and downshift 7, 8 about 1000000 times (how long since it’s been more like the number of gears, then you know you’re in first), push the start button, engage the clutch and go again. You can take off in higher gears, but you need a lot more gas to produce any acceleration.

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I always ask my students how do you know what gear you are in? This is a trick question – usually not. You know you start first and you can only change one gear at a time. So I go back to my rule of thumb and shift as many times as the number of gears to let me know you’re back in first gear.

I’m told “but hey Jen – that wheel on the controls shows what gear I’m in” to which I usually reply “don’t trust electronics – they break eventually” and film it out of sight while we’re driving down the road – much to their chagrin.

Part of the feel has to do with the clutch lever and changing the bike’s power, as well as with your foot on the shifter. You should have shoes that are proper motorcycle shoes for safety as well (I’m a big believer in ATGATT or All The Gear All The Time) and designed so you can feel the shifter.

I’ve had students wear steel toe boots or chunky heeled boots with an edge – and they always seem to have a problem with not finishing the shift and slipping into neutral because they may be using the edge of the shoe instead of tucking the foot in. lever. About 90% of the time from sighting it ends up being a problem, if they have it at all with displacement.

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To introduce the mechanics, I’ll first explain the move order. Simply put, when you’re ready to shift, you pull the gear lever – cut the engine off the rear wheel (simple terms), put your foot on top or under the lever (depending on the gear style and whether you’re moving up or down based on the order speed) and with the left foot press down or pull up this lever.

Then you will press on the gas and at the same time slowly release the clutch lever. I emphasize slow because of the tendency of newer riders to drop the lever suddenly (most of the time due to muscle fatigue that hasn’t been used for a while or at all) instead of loosening the gears.

It’s important to either have the throttle a little bit attached, or alternatively “squeeze” the throttle (basically rev up a bit by opening and closing the throttle quickly and letting the revs match the shifting). That’s why you sometimes hear motorcyclists revving their bikes as they shift gears – and no, not just to get high. This is the order of movement to complete the shift.

How To Shift Gears In A Motorcycle

That’s in addition to looking where you’re going, holding the tank with your knees, and everything else that’s currently going on while driving. Now you see why I say that looking at the gauge cluster at the beginning is irrelevant?

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Back to bike mechanics. What happens when you do all these moves? I’ll start with the clutch first, because it’s the first thing you’ll touch when shifting in most cases, unless it’s automatic or has a quick shifter – we’ll talk about that in a later article.

When the clutch is engaged—the lever is disengaged and power is going to the rear wheel—there are small springs that press against the clutch plate that connects the primary drive to the input shaft. In other words, the part that rotates from the pistons going up and down, which connects to the various gears to transfer that rotational force to the rear wheel.

When you pull this lever, this plate separates and releases the connection to the motor. This allows you to shift gears (which is almost impossible without a clutch unless properly aligned – which is something that is more advanced training).

The gear lever that you press down with your foot is connected to something called a shift fork. This revolves around the parts that attach the gears in the engine to the differential, such as the parts that contain the chain, belt, or drive shaft that transmits power to the rear wheel.

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Shift forks have something called a collar with “dogs” that engage when the fork moves from one gear to another. The “dogs” are the small parts that connect the gears together with the drive shaft of the engine. Like putting your hands together and interlacing your fingers, the fingers would act like “puppies”.

If you shift a step further, it’s possible for your bike to slip into something called false neutral, or between gears that shouldn’t be neutral, like 3rd to 2nd, 4th to 5th, etc.

This means that when you moved the shifter to change gear, there may not have been enough movement and the dogs disengaged from one gear but didn’t fully engage with the next, so the engagement is not perfect and there is no power to the rear. bike. Basically, the gears are moving, but there is nothing to connect them.

How To Shift Gears In A Motorcycle

If this ever happens, pull the clutch, put your foot down (or on top for a MotoGP-style change) and then hold your foot by pulling up (or

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