How To Mount Motorcycle – Building custom motorcycles is hard work, a big part of that is fitting a custom fender. Go too crazy with your ideas and your customers will be scratching their heads wondering what the hell you did. Stay too close to the trend and you risk being forgotten in a sea of parts and bolt-on bikes that don’t inspire you any more than Grandpa’s Christmas sweater.
When it comes to motorcycle front fenders, I like to get creative with brackets. When you assemble a stripped-down café racer or scrambler, each part becomes a link. You only have a custom frame, engine, wheels, tank, seat and fenders, so every little bit counts.
How To Mount Motorcycle
This article will take you through some of our previous bracket lines and give you an insight into how we get the most out of a custom fender. We use a universal 3mm aluminum fender insert to fit the most common tire sizes of 17″, 18″ and 19″ rims. These fenders are designed to fit front tires up to 120 wide, have a great rounded profile and have support strips welded underneath for added strength and are used to drill and thread to save on nuts on the underside of your fender.
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Another commonly used component is our universal DIY fender assembly kit. I’ll mention it below as appropriate, but this kit is a must-have for the garage builder with a little crafting skill, but not every tool under the sun. It is made up of all of our commonly used stainless steel materials used to create and finish some amazing fender mounts.
There are several ways to install a custom front fender on your motorcycle. But in order to run a custom shop as efficiently as possible without stifling creativity, I’ve figured out what works best for me, and I’m going to share it with you. Regardless of how the fender mounts are made, this procedure is used to install the bolts that secure the front aluminum fender.
In the past I’ve taken a blank fender and welded my strut and thread gauge to the underside. With our universal mudguards, this is already prefabricated for you. Create your installation idea and consider whether you want 2, 3 or 4 mounting points. Mark where they will be, drill and tap these points. Custom designed Moto front fenders give you 6mm of thread material. I’ll use an M6 thread and bolt to mount on most fenders, but if I want a particularly minimalistic look I can use M5 threads as well. Just shape it to fit.
Another advantage of these aluminum fenders and the way they are installed is the clearance of the tires and the ease of disassembly and assembly. After installing the threaded brackets under the fender, you don’t need any tools or nuts, which allows you to install these fenders nice and close to the tire, giving your finish a much better look. Allowing for tire stretch and vibration is always key, but this can be as little as 6mm depending on the application.
Lb. Receiver Mount Aluminum Motorcycle Carrier
Custom fender threading also allows for quick removal and installation. With one hex key, there is no longer any need to push the tool between the fender and the tire with the nut. I hated to waste time with what was the reason for reviewing this fender design and process.
I’ve used this type of mount a few times on projects with a little sharper edges. The 3-point attachment gives the front fender a rather elegant and unconventional look, so I don’t think it works as well on more classic bikes.
Here we use a 6mm round bar, hand shaped and mated with an M6 production countersink to allow the screw to line up. All the materials needed for these fender mounts are included in our DIY Fender Kit.
This style is better suited to USD forks as standard fender mounts provide a lower mounting point for traditional forks. Although it can be used for both. Starting with the fender removed from the tire and secured in place, I attach the bolts and fabrication plugs to the fender. And also screw the studs or mounting plate onto the fork.
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Once these are fixed in position I take some Mig or Tig filler wire and hand form the shape connecting the 2 points. The design varies from bike to bike, smooth curves or sharp angles depending on the project.
Once I settle on a design I’m happy with, I’ll take the piece, make sure I can repeat it on the other side, and hand shape the stainless bar into what I need.
As a minimum I use a 6mm round bar, most will use 8mm. Depending on the shape, I use heat to get tighter bends, but I usually work it cold. Clamp one end in a vise and bend small sections at a time to get a nice curve. This process takes some practice and I’m sure there are more accurate methods, but I like to trust my eye.
Once the parts are bent, I clamp them to the wheel and then remove them for final welding.
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Similar to the above method, but with an additional attachment point. The 3-point approach is a very minimal approach, but it’s hard to do because most of the time you end up with a triangle shape. Triangles don’t fit a lot of bikes, so this one is for them.
It’s easier to create a classic style with 4 anchor points because you don’t really need to connect left and right in the middle. I will lay it down, mock it up and bend it using the same technique described above.
You can buy any of these crafting studs at a PBM store, M5, M6 and M8 types, or if you have a lathe you can take the time to make your own. Depends on you! Click here for information on our production studs or simply grab a complete fender installation kit.
It’s worth noting here that on the fork you need to connect 2 mounting points together on each side to create stiffness and not have the bracket pivot at one point. If that happens, it could be catastrophic. So make sure the brackets can rotate and move during your design phase. Different wheels have different attachment points, so use your imagination and everything will look like it belongs there. The fender mount shown here is a Ducati GT1000 that we have rebuilt. Ditching the plastic fenders and mounts to make way for custom cafe racer aluminum fenders and hand built mounts. Dressed in black and red to stay classy!
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This is probably the most classic of the stainless steel bar mounts for your custom fender. Again, use our universal mudguard kit.
Use the USD fender mounts on the front of the fork for the front mount and create a rear mount that connects the caliper mounts on the rear of the fork. It evokes the vintage style that Triumph often used and revived in the later model Bonneville Fender.
Shown here on our sidecar Triumph cafe racer, I managed to replicate the classic 3-point style on a set of USD forks pulled from a Triumph Tiger adventure bike.
We’ve already covered this topic at length in a separate blog, but it’s worth mentioning here. Trimming your motorcycle’s fender is a quick and easy way to make it look good with minimal effort. A really good option when the rear fender is nice but a little too long. Here at our first Triumph Scrambler project.
My No Weld Motorcycle Pelican Case Rear Mount
But that’s not the purpose of making bikes, is it? Bike building is all about striving to create something unique. That’s why I always prefer the production route. However, I’ve certainly used this method of motorcycle front fenders a few times before when the budget dictated it, I needed a quick fix.
This fender mounting technique works well if you have a traditional fork and want a very minimal and almost completely hidden fender mount. I first used this idea with the CX500 Signature series. I had a carbon fiber front fender done and didn’t want anything else on the bike because it looked like it was floating.
The CX500 front needed a triple clamp as well, so I used a pretty heavy stock. I measured between the factory fender mounts, it was about 38mm, so I used about 50mm x 6mm flat steel bar. Cut it to length and bend it around the cube (read a piece of pipe I had lying around) to form a half ring to go over the hoop.
From there I removed the fender bracket from the tire and marked my mounting holes for the factory fender mounting points. Drilled and mounted over the front wheel.
Extension Arm (50mm)
The last step was to drill and hammer the 3 mounting points
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