How To Fix Fuse Box In Car – Fuse boxes (also known as switchboards or fuse panels) are safety features designed to protect electrically powered engine and dashboard components. They are usually found in the cabin under the steering wheel and in the engine compartment next to the battery.
A fully functional fuse box equals flawless performance of your car the moment you start it. But if something electrical isn’t working in your vehicle, knowing how to replace a car fuse becomes very important.
How To Fix Fuse Box In Car
A blown fuse happens from time to time. After all, if the fuse detects an overload or a faulty circuit, it will blow. While it’s ideal to have an experienced mechanic fix a blown fuse, it doesn’t hurt to learn how to change a fuse in a car if you haven’t done it before.
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A blown fuse can manifest itself in a number of ways – the dash lights going out at once, the radio stopping suddenly, or the windows stopping when going up/down (to name a few). Obviously, the telltale signs of a blown fuse appear suddenly. Gradual worsening of symptoms may not necessarily be associated with a blown fuse. However, it is always good to be careful and check.
Accidents can happen, especially when dealing with your vehicle’s electrical system. First, make sure your car is not running. Then, using the Hazet Socket Wrenches 854T type socket wrench (see Amazon) or a wrench, disconnect the negative terminal connected to the battery (place it where it is not touching any metal objects). This ensures that no current flows through the system when inspecting, testing and replacing blown fuses. This step is especially important for vehicles equipped with a push-button start system.
Beginners need not fear when locating the fuse box or panel, as the service manual will usually indicate its location. Most vehicles have their fuse panels under the steering wheel (or somewhere close to it). However, the location of the fuse box is different in different cars. Also, not all cars have a fuse box in the cabin and another under the hood.
Turning over the fuse box lid should reveal a fuse diagram showing which fuse works with which electrical component – this is a great reference for testing and troubleshooting a blown fuse. Likewise, you’ll see several color-coded fuses with numbers indicating their specific amperage rating. It is important to pay attention to these color codes and amperage ratings, especially when you have identified a faulty fuse and are about to replace it.
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This step is usually only applied when you need to remove the entire fuse box. But to make sure that no current flows through the systems, it is better to cut off the power supply and put it aside as soon as the fuse box lid is off. You may need to remove the housing first to access the wires, then go back to the power source before continuing. The power supply to the fuse box is most likely one or a set of red wires with one terminal connected to a screw (looks quite like a battery).
Depending on the problem, you may need to completely remove the fuse box. Removing the fuse box housing (wiring and all) is very important. This causes many wires to be connected to the fuse box and routed to the various systems and sensors that make the car’s components work.
Note the retaining screws holding the fuse plate in place – they can vary in length. So when removing each of the screws individually, be careful where they are placed. Also, use a plastic bag/container or magnetic tray to hold the loose screws together until you need to use them to put the fuse box housing back in place.
Refer to the diagram inside the fuse box cover to locate the faulty fuse. Once you’ve figured it out, visually inspect the fuse in question. Look at the metal filament and see if it is blackened, melted, broken or burnt. A fuse similar to any of these descriptions requires replacing the fuse.
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If the fault is not visually obvious, test it with a standard automotive test light or fuse test tool, available at most auto parts stores. And if your vehicle’s fuse panel doesn’t come with a specialized fuse puller, needle-nose pliers, tweezers, a very small standard screwdriver, or a bent paper clip, it will work just as well.
As mentioned earlier, it is recommended to test a blown fuse before removing it. Do this by performing a continuity test using a multimeter/ohmmeter. Using two multimeter probes (see Amazon), touch the small metal tabs on top of the fuse. See if there is continuity or if the fuse gives a resistance between 0 and 0.001 milliohms. If there is, and there is no sign of discoloration or damage to the fuse filament, the fuse is good – meaning something else is faulty.
Now for the good part. When extracting a blown fuse, you have several tools (including your hands) at your disposal. However, it is ideal to use an extractor because fuses break easily and are much more difficult to pull out if broken (as opposed to intact). The method of removing the fuse also depends on whether your car has a blade or a glass tube. For the latter, it’s best to remove one of the caps first, then work slowly until the entire fuse comes out. Meanwhile, other types of fuses can survive a bit of compression movement.
Always refer to your service manual and the diagram on your fuse panel for guidance when removing blown fuses. Most importantly, make sure your replacement fuses are the right size (following color code and exact amperage), as using the wrong amperage fuse can lead to serious electrical problems. As a best practice, take the faulty fuse with you to a repair shop to compare when purchasing a replacement.
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Note: Be sure to check the fuse panel cover before purchasing replacement fuses. It usually contains spare fuses and sometimes even a fuse holder. Also, never replace a faulty fuse with a fuse with a higher amperage, so that you don’t end up with more problems.
I also recommend keeping extra fuses in the glove box. You should make the most of that trip to the local repair shop by picking up spare fuses of different amperage ratings. That way, when you’re in trouble, you don’t have to pull the fuse on a seldom-used function. Also, vehicles often have more than one component that requires the same amp as another. If more than one of these functions of an amplifier fails, you may have a problem.
Once you’ve completed how to remove a blown car fuse without tools and installed the correct replacement, reconnect the various wires that connect all the components protected by the fuses. Work smart – start with the hardest-to-reach areas and work your way down to the easiest.
After replacing the faulty fuses and reconnecting the wiring, turn on the vehicle’s ignition and see if the faulty circuit is repaired and working properly. The first ten steps listed in this list should easily fix temporary pimples. But if the circuit problem persists, you need to do further diagnosis to fix the problem permanently. There is probably an underlying problem that caused the fuse to blow and is awaiting repair.
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You have already completed all the steps in this guide to remove and replace the fuse. But unpredictable things can happen. Sometimes just replacing faulty fuses is not enough to solve seemingly minor car problems. Especially with used cars, they may have pre-existing problems or physical damage that you were unaware of at the time of purchase. It may be better to have your electrical systems professionally diagnosed and repaired.
In total, at least seven different styles of fuses are still used in most vehicles. These types of fuses differ in appearance and therefore must be matched exactly with the correct fuse replacement. Each of these fuses require different dynamics when checked or removed from the fuse panel. To make sure you always buy the right replacement for your blown fuse, here are the most common fuse styles for your reference:
Introduced in the 1970s, this style of fuse (also known as a shovel or plug fuse) is found primarily in modern sedans and other road vehicles. Originally designed for 12 volt electrical systems, it is color coded and the ampere rating is written on the top of the dial. From 32V to 80V, with amperage ranging from 0.5A to 500A.
In this category, there are four (4) types of fuses which are – Micro (Micro2, Micro3), Mini (APM, ATM), Standard (APR, ATC, ATO) and Maxi (APX). Standard blade fuses are commonly found in cars and trucks, while maxi fuses are used in vehicles designed for heavy duty.
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