How To Block Sand A Car – What separates a good painting from a great painting? Preparatory work – this is a euphemism for a lot and a lot of grinding.
At this point in the project, as seen in Part 1, our E30 BMW chassis is good. We remove the body down to bare metal, remove the teeth with a hammer and dolly work, and apply body filler if necessary.
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The car has no rust, so we don’t have to do any drilling. (If your car needs freshening, check out our website’s article for tips.)
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Now is the time to prepare the car for its blue coat. This process, simply described as priming, sanding and reworking until the body is correct, is difficult, uncomfortable and may require more patience than artists. But some skills are needed, because the new paints give a glass finish that shows every imperfection of the skin.
Don’t worry, though: since a typical plastic mill takes many points, if not hundreds, of hours, you’ll have plenty of time to clean up the job if you’re patient and persistent.
Before we jump into each step, it’s worth discussing where to get things. There are two common options: local paint shop and mail order suppliers like Eastwood or SummitRacing.
A local business can be a great source of advice – best practices, best tools, and what to do when things go wrong. On the other hand, national suppliers offer a wide range of products and brands. Whichever method you choose, the bottom line is to get the right stuff based on the right rules.
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It’s time to move our E30 from the bare metal and parts of the filler to a gray base.
Our car looks clean and straight after being stripped down to bare metal, but some dents, scuffs and other internal areas call for the use of body filler. After removing the filler and using some 180-grit paper to file the edges, we prepared our car for its first coats.
If you’ve read our spinning history, you know our mantra: “You can’t spin on dirt, oil or other impurities.” Well, you can’t paint them, so it takes a long time to wash the car with a paint prep solvent. To do this, dip a strong paper towel in the solvent and wipe a part of the car. Then use a new paper towel to dry. Repeat this process on each section until the drying towel is completely clean.
You can see we have the car covered. Although old newspapers can work, we prefer to use the original masking paper available from our paint supplier. Use a good brand of masking tape to tape where needed and peel when needed.
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We prefer a high quality urethane primer, which we mix with its catalyst according to the ratios recommended by the supplier. Stir for a few minutes to ensure a good mix.
We used a $150 DeVilbiss high-pressure, low-pressure spray gun that we set up for primer. If you’re on a budget, we’ve seen good results from small guns sold by wholesalers. Note that before the paints are put into the gun, we put on a good respirator to protect our lungs from the chemicals in the can.
Focusing on one layer at a time, we used the first coat of primer, with each stroke half of the first half. We do this undercoat, followed by three or four slightly lighter coats.
Our “painting studio” is just our 24×30-foot shop, carefully cleaned to keep dust from the original. Some people like to put up plastic sheeting for extra protection, but we’ve found that moving important items out of the garage and covering everything else with plastic or old paper work well – even the HVLP gun will not produce overspray. What’s not pictured here is the big shiny box fan we stuck to the window. With the service door slightly open, the fan moves the smoke outside.
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After the curing window has dried, we begin the process of making applesauce. We’ve really grown to love Dura-Block Sanders, which come in a variety of lengths, shapes and degrees of flexibility. We only used two, a 12-inch and a 6-inch, and loaded them with 180-grit, hard sand.
This is where patience and skill pay off. When you sand, the color changes slightly to reveal the deeper spots of the body’s surface. A slow retracement of the surrounding high points will take these low points very well.
Of course, some of those low spots need to be filled. That’s when we break out the catalyzed vitrification furnace. It works like body filler, but it’s better and can be spread in thin layers. We sanded it down, starting again with 80-grit and then 180-grit.
Before the first coat, wipe with paper towels and solvent and clean the car again.
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Preforming and recording is a process of transformation. For intermediate steps, we often see low points that need work.
Here’s what the car looks like after we’ve prepared about 25 percent of it. In the dry season, the part-primed will not be visible, but we will always know where to put our loops.
After a few sessions of block sanding and spotting, we sanded the entire car one last time as a sealer before the final coat of paint. We usually put two coats on at this stage; if the instructions allow, we like to separate the primer a little before use.
Block Sanding got the car right away, but it wasn’t ready for the final paint yet. It’s time to grab the small pieces and clean the sand the car, going from 320 to 400 and finally 600 grit paper.
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It’s also possible to destroy your straight line with waves in this process, so be careful to use long blocks, cross your lines, and (you guessed it) change your paper often to be sharper. . For us, wet sanding is the easiest, smoothest and most comfortable of paint preps.
But it’s really fun when you’re done. Our first model was simple and straight and almost shiny.
A lot of work, but it looks great! But watch your fingers when twisting. You can leave blisters on your fingers if you’re not careful.
I want to paint my car myself, I don’t have a good place for it. My neighbors don’t appreciate it, you’ve probably heard of those times. However, if you’ve been around the block more than once, you’ve already seen some of the best paint jobs like the one below.
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But it is not about removing all defects. The reason that the mirror shows an ideal image is because it is very flat. Any distortion in the surface of the mirror will cause a corresponding distortion in the reflection. There are few areas on the car that can be called flat, but with a custom paint job done by top shops like Muscle Car Restoration (MCR), the differences in the type of skin. .
It is similar to how Lackless Dent Repair works. The paintless dental restoration technique uses the negative reflection found on the painted surface to lead to the removal of the teeth. When the thinking is right, the tooth is finished. Of course, we’re not talking about teeth here. The panel molding method is usually larger than the tooth and is more flexible.
The solution to getting flawless panels is to coat them as needed and protect the entire car after starting. No, Mopar didn’t do that at the factory. Time and cost are very tight. The Mopar also did not produce the level of gloss of its paint that is often achieved with today’s paint products.
And the truth is, Mopar doesn’t work with a 50-year-old metal frame. Like it or not, original panels will never be completely free from damage. New replacement boards are better today, but aftermarket and N.O.S. Body panels should be inspected for minor defects, such as waves and dead ends from manufacturing.
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These small imperfections are usually not visible on a normal factory orange skin, but will be very noticeable on a high cut and sealed painted surface. Eliminating these defects in the structure and smoothing the sealed or bonded areas requires advanced metalworking techniques, such as lacquerless dent repair. and skim-coated body filler.
It would be good to explain what the coverage is. First, don’t print a batch of fillers to cover up bad metal work. Instead, it’s an ultra-thin pre-primer coat designed to provide a very smooth base for a good paint job. This is the type of coating that allows you to look down on the side of the glass like a polished panel and not notice the wrinkle at the end.
A good example of both of these situations is this 1970 ‘Cuda. The metal was in better than average condition than most of the MCR had seen, and many more.
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