Why Is My Motorcycle Losing Power When Accelerating – I bought a “new to me” 2006 on Friday. This is an “as is” purchase from a dealer, which means it cannot be tested. I got a lot done, so I didn’t care if I needed a job or not.
2. I was driving and noticed a drop in power when first accelerating and reaching 3000rpm. If I increased the speed it would be fine in this gear until I got to a higher rpm and it would go haywire again.
Why Is My Motorcycle Losing Power When Accelerating
3. There was some smoke coming from the outside that looked new, so I thought it was a back pressure problem. They gave me the original (looked cooler in my opinion) and I immediately changed it to the original and posted it again. It seemed fine at first ….then it happened in 4th and 5th revs at a slightly higher rpm. I also noticed some sticking and some backlash in the transmission when hitting and rolling to the stop sign.
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1. Called the dealer where the bike was originally from 2005…found by the sticker under the seat and the owner’s manual. They said there was a fuel pump warning in 2012. Other than that I have never seen the bike and I don’t think it has been checked at any BMW dealer in its life.
They were very helpful with many technical tips.
2. My plan for this week and what I think it might be….if anyone thinks I’m on the right track, please comment.
A. The oil spill…..Maybe they just dump low octane oil and go to the dealer to sell it….not much…..Preach first.
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I do all this when I buy a new bike. I’ve never been in a BMW before, so I hope this solves the problem.
Having said that, and for those of you who know these bikes, is there anything I’ve touched that could be a problem that could cause this situation?
Sorry for the long message, I’m going gangbusters tonight starting Sunday!!! And I’ll go every day until I’m done….any recognition, info or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
The car had the same problem. A fuel filter or fuel pump problem will limit rpm like a stuck cat.
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Your care plan sounds good. Make sure to go tank with Techron through it. Make sure to lubricate the threads when you do the last replacement…and the fill is 180ml not 220 as stated in the Haynes manual. Trans fats can also vary.
***** ONLY DO THIS AFTER ADJUSTING THE VALVE CLEARANCE***** – Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature – Turn the key off – Turn off both valve lifters – Turn the key on but don’t do it. start the engine – Reengage both gears – Re…
Bikermd said: The car had the same problem. A fuel filter or fuel pump problem will limit rpm like a stuck cat. Click to expand… Does this bike have a cat?
I once had a car with a clogged fuel filter and it exhibited the same behavior. Low rpm is better for low fuel consumption, so at high speed it prefers higher gears and going slower requires less fuel to start, so the engine can be revved higher. The GS has a filter in the pump I believe?
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But it’s probably good to do all the normal maintenance first and you’ll see what the plugs etc look like. When I bought the 2009 it was never serviced so I did everything, spit out the OEM service DVD after putting in a 10 year deficit. service and mileage. First of all, the entrance has a rat’s nest of fiberglass insulation. Stick to the original Mahle filter, because mice can’t chew it because of the metal guard. Beemer boneyard is a good source for the right parts and the latest motor oil, Liqui Moly 75W90 remember, one bottle will do both. After changing the oil my bike runs like butter. Walmart sells Mobil 1 15W50 synthetic for $23 and is currently $10 off. And be sure to wash the brakes, which is an easy job for six-heads.
I am more sensitive to weak or defective candles. A board did this after I went more than 1/2 throttle.
Well, that could be an easy fix. Here’s hoping. We often think that it is the worst, only to find out that it is a faucet or a floor. I’m hoping to pull the plug today and maybe solve the mystery a bit, or at least find a place to start. My first thought was chips. Then a thought about valve adjustment….because I thought maybe under harder acceleration it might get the effect of the valve floating and they can’t close fast enough to keep the compression there.
BTW: I noticed the last recall went out on Friday. If your fuel pump is original and the first recall was never done, or if you only broke the flanged metal ring, you will install a new fuel pump from BMW. This should also eliminate the fuel filter problem. Not a bad problem for a 14 year old bike.
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Your bike may have a wide recall. Call any BMW dealership and look up your VIN to see if they have it.
Call your BMW dealer with the VIN to confirm each model, then order the parts and make an appointment. Very easy.
Duffer said: Yeah, thanks, I’ll check it out! Click to expand… And please report back what you found and how it was fixed, if any.
I start by changing the gas because the cheap gas price was wrong when I took it to the dealer… Then check the air filter.
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Then replace the plugs. After the plugs are done I’ll do a sync test to see if it’s out of spec. Might even do a test drive and see if that’s the culprit before I fix anything. Then the valves are adjusted. Another sync test and adjust if necessary.
Duffer said: I will. I picked up everything I needed last night, including a vacuum gauge for balance. I start by changing the gas because the cheap gas price was wrong when I took it to the dealer… Then check the air filter. Then replace the oil. Then replace the plugs. After the plugs are done I’ll do a sync test to see if it’s out of spec. Might even do a test drive and see if that’s the culprit before I fix anything. Then the valves are adjusted. Another sync test and adjust if necessary. I’ll make sure everyone extends the Andrew Click…
Candubrain says: Kincardine, Ont. If there are no plugs, bad ignition coil. brian Click to expand… How to identify the ignition coil?
Duffer says: How do you identify the ignition coil and have the specs? Click to expand… sorry. Can’t advise on that. When the motor has a weak coil, it will not show until it warms up
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Candubrain said: Sorry. Can’t advise on that. When the motor has a weak coil it doesn’t show up until it warms up Click to expand… Hey man thanks for the tip…..the motor went to the smallest side to pull the plug… .it came the coil came out of the plug…..checked on that side the two plugs ….ok recent and clean …….went to the other side ….went to remove the coil and came out but there was tape in the middle … so i tried the fire test and it was open- clear no spark. The coils were sealed just to check…the left side coil had a spark on the right wire…the guy before put the coil back on, it broke in half. So, new paper tomorrow.
This is an old thread, you may not get a response and you can revive the old thread. Please consider creating a new topic. On Easter Sunday the fuel pump on my 2008 ZX-6R stopped working, leaving me stranded on the side of the road. I ordered and installed the pump repair kit and the bike runs but won’t go over 10k rpm in all gears including neutral. I double checked all the pump seals, no leaks and there is oil pressure and flow. No codes, clean air filter, all coils are in spec, second hand injection. I put a temp gun on the head and cylinder 4 (I think the right cylinder if you sat on the bike) kept getting cold, sometimes as low as 60° F. I changed the coil, injectors and injectors
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