What Is Rectifier In Motorcycle

What Is Rectifier In Motorcycle – APO/FPO, Africa, Alaska/Hawaii, Asia, Barbados, Bermuda, Canada, Central America and the Caribbean, Europe, French Guiana, French Polynesia, Greenland, Guadeloupe, Libya, Martinique, Mexico, Middle East, New Caledonia, Oceania, Gathering, Russian Federation, Saint Peter and Miquelon, South America, Southeast Asia, American protectorates, Ukraine, Venezuela

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The motorcycle regulator rectifier tester circuit presented here can be used to test 6 wire shunt type regulator rectifiers for a 3 phase charging system of motorcycles. These reg./rectifiers (RR units) are usually sealed with epoxy and it is considered difficult to determine if the unit is faulty or not.

As the name suggests, the unit has 2 circuits ie. the Ruler and the Corrector. Usually, the strings are coded as below:

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To test the Regulator, its wires are connected to the test circuit as shown. The red wire is not used.

The op-amp IC1-A (along with C1, R1, R2, R3, R5 and R6) is configured as an integrator. R1 & R2 form a voltage divider, which provides about 7V as a reference voltage for the op-amp. R5 & R6 form another voltage divider to provide a ramp out voltage (lower than 7V) through Q1 BC547 which acts as a switch.

Initially Q1 is on, so a ramp voltage is generated from about 7V to about 16.5V. This ramp is fed into the RR unit via the Ignition wire (BLACK/YELLOW).

If the RR unit is good, its regulator circuit will trip at 14.4-15V (and provide gate voltage to the 3 SCRs inside the RR unit). The anodes of these SCRs are connected to 3 phases ie. the 3 YELLOW strings. The three red LEDs will find their way to ground through yellow wires and SCRs so they light up.

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At the same time, a voltage from one of the phases is fed into pin # 5 of IC1-B which is configured as a voltage comparator. It compares it to the reference voltage assigned by voltage divider R7 & R8. Since the voltage at pin #5 is lower than the ref. voltage at pin #6, the output at pin #7 goes low.

This turns off Q1, which cuts off the ramp-out voltage. The voltage creep stops. This control voltage (14.4 – 15V) can be read with a voltmeter M1.

If none of the LEDs are illuminated or none of the LEDs are illuminated, this indicates that one or more SCRs are bad. If the voltmeter reads about 16.5V, it indicates that the regulator circuit is not working.

The rectifier section of the RR unit consists of only 6 rectifier diodes as shown. The wires are connected as shown. The Black/Yellow wire is not used.

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IC2 is a 555 configured as a stable oscillator. Since the supply voltage is 18V and the maximum voltage for 555 is 15V, zener diode D2 is introduced to protect the IC.

The output is connected to 1 yellow wire at a time. Both LEDs should blink, indicating that the corresponding adjusters are good. If only one or no LEDs blink, it indicates that one or both rectifiers are bad.

Now, red and green wire connections are swapped. If one or both LEDs are blinking, this indicates that the rectifiers are shorted (bad).

I am an electronic engineer (dipIETE), hobbyist, inventor, schematic/PCB designer, manufacturer. I am also the founder of the website: https:/// where I love to share my innovative circuit ideas and tutorials.

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If you have a question about a circuit, you can interact through comments, I will be happy to help! A rectifier is the part of the charging system that converts the AC voltage from the alternator into a DC voltage that can be used to charge the battery. .

Here is a picture of a Lucas alternator rotor (the magnetic piece in the middle) and stator (the piece around the outside with the wires coming out of it)

As the magnets in the rotor spin, they excite the coils of wire embedded in the green resin on the stator.

AC is fine to make a light bulb glow, but to use it to charge a battery it needs to be converted to DC instead.

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The “Full Wave Bridge Rectifier” to give it its proper name uses four diodes that basically take everything below the green line, flip it and put it above the line!

The diodes on the original units were prone to noise, due to the vibration of cars and bikes.

So, the more modern equivalent of RECTIFIER RESIDUES is potted in epoxy resin power. It looks like this:

There are some new types of controllers/rectifiers that cannot be tested simply because they contain microchips and specialized circuitry.

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Also remember that some of the combination controllers/rectifiers have capacitors in them which will also affect your results.

If you are running a combination controller/rectifier, remember that this test procedure only confirms that the rectifier pack is working as it should. The regulatory side is not part of these tests – you should check the output via positive and negative cables when the reg/connected to a fully charged battery.

However, most controllers/adjusters on the market (such as Podtronics, Boyer Bransden Power Box and Tympanium) are simple and easy to test.

If you have an original factory rectifier, make sure your multimeter has a new battery – the diodes are thicker than the modern equivalents.

How To Test A Regulator Rectifier

The display will read “OL” which stands for “Open Line” when nothing is connected to your test lines.

With your test lines connected together, the needle will be at the other end of the scale resting on the stop – reading 1.

I don’t think their description of the testing procedure is very clear. So I’ve tried my best below to make it easy to understand.

Follow the instructions below, or click here to download a set of instructions that you can print.

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You should produce a series of 8 numbers – follow the process below, writing the numbers down as you go so you don’t lose track.

In the tests below – the green arrow on tests 1, 3, 5 and 7 indicates that you should see a value on your multimeter.

This value varies by unit, but most importantly the value of all four readings should be the same or nearly the same.

For the rest of the tests – the STOP signal on tests 2, 4, 6 and 8 indicates that no voltage is flowing.

A Rectifier On A Motorcycle

If you do not see the desired values in one of these tests, it means you have a faulty component (diode) inside the rectifier.

Make sure you dispose of the faulty part, rather than putting it in a drawer at your workplace. This will ensure he doesn’t find his way back to a bike in the future!!!

Tagged as: 49072 , AC , alternator , boyer bransden , boyer power box , DC , LU49072 , lucas , lucas 49072 , POD -tronics , podtronics , power box , power box , rectifier , rotor , stator , drum , voltage

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