What Is A Stater On A Motorcycle – Here’s a quick (but detailed) guide on how to check the motorcycle’s warranty on any motorcycle – whether you’re buying it or owning it.
Paying for a motorcycle is very easy. When you know how the motorcycle charging system works and what can go wrong with it, it is easy to check the fault.
What Is A Stater On A Motorcycle
And since breakdowns are not uncommon, knowing how to fix a charging system can mean the difference between getting 200km home or being stranded in the middle of nowhere where.
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It can also mean not buying a dud or $500 off motorcycle asking price.
Well, I am. That’s why I created this website – as an outlet. I love to learn and share things that others will find useful. If you like what you read here and are as obsessed as I am, you may want to know when I will be posting more. (See the latest version for an idea of what you’ll see.)
In short, there are only five main electrical components in the motorcycle’s charging system (which is not regularly updated).
When something doesn’t work with your motorcycle’s charging system, it’s one of those things that has failed. Finding out where it failed is important.
Motorcycle Stator Coil
Many times when you ask about motorcycle charging in the forum, people say “dead battery” and give an example of when they bought a battery and it died from the store. I’m sure that happens and sometimes they will be right. But don’t buy the battery unless you’re sure it’s the culprit. Better if he’s dead, you know what killed him. It is better not to “throw spaghetti at the wall”. It’s a waste of spaghetti.
The main thing I have seen changed on modern bikes is that sometimes the stator coil is not driven directly by the engine and is replaced by a separate unit (the alternator) that is driven by belt, just like in a car. I have seen this recently on BMW R1200* engines and have written a guide on changing the alternator belt here as well.
There are some important symptoms of bad motorcycle payments. Any of these could mean that something in your immune system is damaged.
Basically, when your bike won’t charge (or shut down), it means one of the things above has failed!
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The failure of a part in the motorcycle charging system occurs in many different ways, there are several ways:
Also, all you need is regular tools, like the ones in your device. You will have to grab the battery and disconnect a few things. I’m just saying you want it
Before doing a test on your charging bike… you need to use a charger that you buy from Amazon or eBay. Leave it overnight.
You must charge your battery before performing any other tests or your results will be invalid.
How To Replace A Motorcycle Stator?
To charge your battery you usually have to remove the seat and the seats if you have them. Sometimes you have to remove the tank – I hope it’s not you!
Note: I’m very thankful to have a bike fairing (to keep me warm) but it’s a bikini fairing so I can access everything.
Once your battery is charged, you are now ready to start testing your bike’s charging system! Check the battery voltage using your multimeter.
Before you buy a new battery – if your bike has been working well and you need a new battery… you should ask yourself, “Why is my battery dead?” ?”
Kawasaki Ninja Zx 1000 R Stater / Alternator And Other Used Motorcycle Parts
If it’s just old – like, the battery has never been replaced, or it’s more than 5 years old – then you’ll be happy to replace the battery.
But if the regulator / rectifier is bad, then you just have to fry a new one, wasting time and money. Try reg/rec – we’ll do that next.
Now start the bike, let it warm up for a while and check the battery voltage again.
Is the voltage less than 12 V when not working? Then something is not created now enough. You may have a short in the system that is drawing too much current, you may have a bad generator/stator coil, or your reg/rect may be failing.
Stator Electric Scooter
Is the voltage greater than 15 V at 3,000 rpm? If so, then your regulator/rectifier may be half fried. You can do some more testing on this (that’s a story for another day). But you can take it in, or take a pot shot and buy one and replace it. At worst, you’ll need a backup later (everyone dies eventually).
To get deeper into where your motorcycle’s charging system is failing, see if your alternator/stator coil is working or if your reg/rec is working as expected .
The stator coil came off my old Ducati Monster 900. I was sure the problem before I went to this length!
You need to know if the alternator/stator coil is making enough power. Usually you can tell if it is by testing the output voltage.
Motorcycle Stator Coil For Honda Cbr600f4 01 06 340 58034 31120 Mbw J21
The stator coil is a coil (or series of coils) that surrounds the rotor. The rotor is just a magnet attached to the motorcycle’s crankshaft.
When the motorcycle engine turns – that is, when it is on (or you push it to start!) – the rotor magnet turns. The magnets rotate in the stator coils. The changing magnetic field caused by the rotating magnet induces current in the coils. It works back to the generator.
To check your stator coil, you need to check if it is producing enough voltage. If it is, it is usually a sign that it can carry the load. (Not always, but almost always.)
First, find the output of your stator coil. Usually a plug comes out of the whole area.
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Don’t know where the output stator coil is located? On long-stroke engines, such as V-twins, you can usually find the clutch on one side of the engine and the stator on the other side. You know the clutch side because the clutch cable and actuator go to it. You know the stator side because it’s the other side! On that side, you will see the plug.
On transversely mounted engines, like my BMW or many inline fours, it is not so obvious. There, it’s easier to find the regulator/rectifier (under the seat, usually) and check the voltage there.
If you still haven’t found any problems, you can do some tests with the engine running. You have charged the battery, so it should start.
Now you can check the voltage between the stator coil terminals at 3,000 rpm. Depending on your motorcycle, you should have a reading between 20 and 50 volts.
Close Up Of Used Motorcycle Stator On A Rusty Metal Sheet Background. Stock Photo, Picture And Royalty Free Image. Image 92685056
The voltage you get is not important (unless it is less than 15 – at 3,000 rpm you should have enough voltage to charge the battery, so above 15). The most important thing is that a) there is a voltage indicator on all terminals, and b) they are all the same (if you have a multi-phase alternator).
Some older alternators are only two-phase and have only two output wires. With these, that’s the only way you measure.
Today’s alternators usually have three phases and have three outputs. So you should measure A-B, B-C and A-C. In this case, your thoughts should be similar.
These are often impossible for older bikes because they lead a very difficult life. For millions of motor fans, they need to use a lot of electricity, convert it to direct current, and then cut off the excess, causing heat.
How To Test A Stator With A Multimeter
That’s what regulators / rectifiers do (they are two, but they are usually in a module because they are easy to build – they are made of high-current diodes).
The rectifier converts AC voltage to DC. This is the same as any power adapter in your home, such as your phone charger. The AC output from the wall outlet needs to be converted to DC to charge your devices. AC can only be used for products that only provide heat or light (where the direction of the current does not matter), such as ovens, toasters, kettles and lamps.
A “full wave” rectifier circuit. Whether the AC swings up or down, it produces a positive voltage.
The regulator keeps the voltage down from high to a level where it won’t fry your battery. The alternator produces large voltages – higher as your engine revs higher. The regulator removes excess and gives your battery just what it needs. Sometimes, this reduces more than 70% of the available electricity!
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The sad thing about this is that it just removes too much energy as heat. This is why regulators are fried. They are very anxious.
When the controller fries, you will get a) no electricity (dead battery) or b) too much voltage (fried battery, which means dead battery).
This is because if you have dropped the battery and replaced it without checking your reg/rec, you can fry the battery again.
To check the regulator/rectifier: Well, if you
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