How To Switch Gears On Motorcycle – This vehicle owner’s manual contains warnings, instructions, and other information that you must read and fully understand before safely operating or servicing this vehicle. Always follow the warnings and instructions in the owner’s manual.
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How To Switch Gears On Motorcycle
Forced shifting (clutch engaged) can damage the engine, transmission and drivetrain. Doing so could cause you to lose control, which could result in serious injury or death. Always pull the clutch lever fully toward the steering wheel to disengage the clutch before changing gears.
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Your motorcycle can be equipped with a five-speed or six-speed gearbox. The neutral position is between first and second gears.
Press the foot lever to downshift. Lift the finger lever to shift up. Release the clutch lever after each gear shift.
Shifting into neutral is easier if the motorcycle is moving slowly. To shift from first gear to neutral, gently lift the foot lever half way.
A transmission is in neutral if you can freely move the motorcycle forwards or backwards without disengaging the clutch. If the ignition switch is in the ON position, the neutral indicator will illuminate when the transmission is in neutral.
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To put the motorcycle in neutral when stationary, use one of the following methods to load and unload the transmission:
Improper downshifting can damage the transmission, cause loss of traction and control, resulting in serious injury or death. Reduce speed before going downhill. Always downshift at the recommended shift points. Be very careful when driving on wet, slippery or other low traction surfaces. In such conditions, release the clutch lever very gradually. Avoid downshifting in a turn. Downshift before entering a curve.
Within the recommended speed ranges (see the table of recommended shift points), you can downshift to slow the motorcycle or increase power. You may need to downshift when going uphill or passing. Downshifting also helps reduce speed when the throttle is closed at the same time. When it comes to smooth riding on a motorcycle, Mr. Chow from The Hangover would probably ask, “But did you move?”
Most motorcycles on the market are manual transmissions, which means you shift the gears yourself instead of relying on the vehicle’s mechanics to do it for you. They have a lever called a clutch lever. To keep things simple, I’ll focus on clutch shifting on 6-speed motorcycles (some have 4 or 5 gears – pretty much the same shift method minus one gear).
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Basically, your bike will tell you that it needs to change the sound and response of the engine, which is how I like to teach my students, because relying on the tachometer (which tells you the RPMs or revolutions per minute of the engine) is another thing. which takes your eyes off the road.
Keeping an eye on the road is extremely important – especially when learning – and just as important is a year on the road, which can be the difference between coming home or ending up 6 feet deep.
In addition to learning how to read, listen, and feel the motorcycle, it can also tell you when something is off and doesn’t sound like it should or shouldn’t, or when something isn’t working (which means you might want to have someone check it out—preferably someone who who is a licensed motorcycle mechanic).
Movement on motorcycles is consistent. This means the lowest gear is 1 and neutral is half a click up between 1 and 2 (basically up or down, N or neutral is always between 1 and 2 with one exception that I’ll touch on at the end of this article. .
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So the pattern for a 6-speed bike should look like this: 1, N, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. If you’re shifting MotoGP style, the pattern is now reversed when you shift one up to start. and down to get to 2-6 (again in exactly the opposite order to the normal shift style). See my previous guide for more information on shift types.
I have a simple saying: if the engine is loud, shift up (fast up) and if the engine is slow and low (low tone), downshift. It’s a very easy way to remember when to move, and it’s my rule of thumb for sound.
Now, to get it right, people learn different techniques, but for beginners I like to keep it simple and as you get more mechanically aware of your bike, with muscle memory and riding time, experiment with what you want. have Learning won’t hurt.
For example, when driving in first gear and shifting into second gear, you need to give the bike a reason to move. Ideally, you have good throttle response when the clutch is off, but the engine isn’t yelling at you for what they call redline. This is where you’ve reached the limit of the engine’s RPM and it kicks back into what’s called a limiter to keep your engine from going beyond its capabilities and significantly shortening its life.
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If you’re shifting too early and stalling the bike, meaning the engine didn’t have enough power to do what you told it to do, take the clutch lever to the handlebars and shift gears 7, 8 about 1000000 times (as long as it’s more than the number of gears, then you’ll know , that you are first), hit the play button, pull and start over. You can start using higher gears, but you need a lot more throttle to induce some acceleration.
I always ask my students how do you know what gear you are? This is a tricky question – you don’t usually do it. You know you’re starting first and you can only shift one gear at a time. So I go back to the sound rule of thumb and downshift more times than the number of gears so you know you’re back in first gear.
I’ve been told, “But hey, Jenn – this bike shows what gear I’m in on the controls,” to which I usually reply, “Don’t trust the electronics because they eventually failed” and tap it out of sight. until we hit the road, much to their dismay.
Feel the clutch lever and the bike’s power change, as well as your foot on the gear lever. For safety, you should have proper motorcycle boots (I’m a big believer in ATGATT or All The Gear All The Time) and they are designed to allow you to feel the shifter.
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I’ve had students in steel toe shoes or chunky fringe heels – and they always seem to have trouble not finishing the shift and slipping into neutral because they might be using the edge of the shoe instead of lifting their foot straight under. lever About 90% of the tracking time it becomes a problem if they get anything at all while moving.
So, to get into the mechanics, I’ll first explain the progression of the movement. Simply put, when you’re ready to shift, you engage the shifter – disconnect the motor from the rear wheel (in layman’s terms), place your foot on top of or under the shifter (depending on the style of shifter and whether you’re going up or down a gear) and use your left foot to push down or pull the lever up.
Then simultaneously press the throttle and slowly release the clutch lever. I emphasize slow because newer riders tend to release the lever suddenly (usually due to fatigue of muscles that have not been used for a long time or ever) instead of easing into the change.
It’s important to have a bit of throttle or “press” the throttle (basically increasing the RPMs a bit by quickly opening and closing the throttle and letting the RPMs drop as you shift). That’s why you’ll sometimes hear riders revving their engines while shifting gears – and no, it’s not for nothing. This is the sequence of moves to complete the shift.
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It’s not just watching where you’re going, keeping the tank on the roads and everything else that’s going on while you’re driving. Can you see why I’m saying that looking at the gauge cluster isn’t important?
Back to the mechanics of the bike. What happens when you do all these moves? I’ll start with the clutch first, since it’s usually the first thing you touch when shifting, unless it’s an automatic or quickshifter, which we’ll talk about in a later article.
When the clutch is engaged – the lever
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