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How To Fix A Broken Toilet Paper Holder
The toilet paper clips are held in place by small screws that hold the trim piece to a wall bracket attached to the wall. The normal pushing and pulling of the decorative levers while loading and unloading toilet paper rolls can loosen the screws that hold the roll in place, making the holder loose to do its job. Correct this problem as soon as it is noticed to avoid further repairs.
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If you notice the loosening fast enough, you can easily fix it in minutes with the right tools.
If a loose bracket is not immediately secured, the downward pressure of the loose lever can cause the wall socket to drop. This can cause the screw to sink into the cement, creating a larger hole than needed for the screw.
Is a wiki similar to Wikipedia, which means many of our articles are written by multiple authors. When this article was created, 10 people, some anonymous, worked to edit it and improve it over time. This article has been viewed 121,526 times. I’m in the process of renovating an old bathroom in the house and I’m about to re-tiling and finishing the tub, however I have this broken ceramic toilet paper holder. and I don’t have a broken piece. putting it back together. I have attached / attached a photo of what it looks like.
I’m wondering what is the best way to remove it (while keeping the surrounding tile in tact) and replace it with a new one?
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If anyone can share the best removal, surface preparation, and installation methods, that would be great. (I was thinking of just taking a hammer and seeing what happens, but I decided to slow down and ask first, lol)
Thanks for the feedback. I’m assuming you use a dremel or grout remover and drill the cover with the cover?
Joints are too hard for a Dremel, don’t do it. Use a knife and remove as much of the grout and grout as you can. However, do not be lazy, because this is important. Remove as much as you can and open the crack as far as you can around it. Then you have to find something to make a notch somewhere on the paper holder. A Dremel will work for this. Once you have relaxed the surface tension a bit… You can use a hammer to break the material. Whatever you do, don’t touch it if it involves using an adhesive on the tile you’re going to save. Go slow, be deliberate with each step. You can remove this item from there without damaging anything, but take your time.
This format is common and you can easily find another one. The new device can be installed using 100% silicone caulk and adhesive tape after cleaning the hole of old glue or patch residue.
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Good points made – especially about being very careful. You only have one chance to get it without ruining things.
I’m not as impatient as Bud and would at least try the Dremel Multi-Max (or another model). Also, be very careful!
I’m not that patient myself, but I’ve learned over the years that what works best and what makes your life miserable can end up pocketing your paycheck. another person is two different things that I can control. .: must be:
A Dremel rotary tool or any other multi tool is sometimes just a simple oil.
Adelaide Toilet Paper Holder
I say this in this case because this tile is easy to mark with any metal or metal tool and any of these vibrating tools can easily damage you. If paths appear on a tile, they cannot be removed for some reason. Even using a knife is dangerous.
Some of these older appliances can sink into the wall. I would take the sander and cut about an inch or so around. This leaves the edges tight. Again, take the sander and cut a “V” in the edges open to the center. Take a hammer and chisel and press the edges to the center. The letters “V” should come out without touching the surrounding tiles. You can fill the base or cover the tile area with other materials. Or both.
Remove the discard a. Dig deep, as they tend to be thicker than the surrounding tiles. Note how it is returned. Dig a hole, a bit larger than it should be, right in the middle of this shape. Then use a cold chisel or a tile chisel to start hacking this tool from every corner to the hole, it will be easier than you think. This will allow you to remove the broken pieces from the “pocket” in which it is placed with little collateral damage to the tile around the building. When you find it, remove all the back putty you can from the edges of the existing tiles. You can still find these materials from most tile stores, not apron stores. I have made several of these over the years.
Thank you all so much for the helpful advice. I’m going to get around to it in a few days and try to post some updates about my business.
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I told you guys I’d post an update and now maybe you guys can give me some info on rebuilding/replacing what I’ve shown so far. I’ve taken pictures of my progress and I’m going to explain what’s going on:
1. I tried the edge cutting suggestion with a dremel tool and my results were poor. (maybe I used the wrong word, I’m not sure).
2. I found that my chisel gave good results as the edge of the grout seemed to come out normally.
3. It was recommended to drill a hole in the middle of the container to break the surface tension… This did not work well because it took about 10-15 minutes with my masonry drill making the surface permeable.
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4. and 5. I used the chiseling tip from the outside and broke the piece. I spent a lot of time and effort on this process and managed to screw a small tile on top of the frame.
6. I was able to drill through the entire piece, but found more “ceramic” behind and around the piece. I’m new to this so I didn’t know what the material was and I kept screwing up. after further research on the net it appears that the walls are plastered and it appears that the container is filled with extra plaster? Maybe someone can explain this to me
7. I noticed a piece of string in the broken container. I assume this was used to mark tile areas?
8. & 9. Did I break and clean the retainer/plaster and drywall pieces? until I reached the fence. I thought that would be my last point.
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So the question is what is the best way to fill this hole and keep the new cover? Please advise lol
You have what is known as a “clincher” of sorts. Yes, it is a cement wall. The first thing you need to do is buy a new paper clip (again in the clincher style) and get started. I can still see the old fittings left (photos 8 and 9) and they need to be removed.
Once you have a new paper clip in hand, you can tell if you’ve removed enough of the old dirt by inserting the new paper clip into the recess.
Once the recess has been cleaned and accommodates the new paper holder, you must use a thin layer of mortar to install the new paper holder and tape to hold it in place until the mortar dries.
Toilet Paper Holder Replacement
I think someone will come along and suggest that you use 100% silicone instead of thinset, which might work, but it wouldn’t be my choice.
So I was able to knock some of the ceramic out of the original holder and a lot of the cracked cement in the hole. I now have a 6 x 4.5 x 1 deep “cleaner”. I bought a new toilet paper holder and it is the right size, but not as deep as an inch. It goes back about 1/4 inch and the part that is turned back is only 4 x 4 inches. What
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