How To Clean A Gas Tank On A Motorcycle – Installing a new fuel pump in an old fuel tank can cause premature wear or worse, cause the new pump to fail completely. This is because dirt, grime, and grime that has built up in the fuel tank can clog the new filter, which is probably what caused the original failed fuel pump.
A clogged fuel filter will clog the fuel pump and prevent the fuel pump from getting the right amount of fuel and/or the correct fuel pressure. This can work and damage your new fuel pump as well as other parts of the vehicle’s fuel system. Under heavily polluted conditions, the accumulation of debris in the fuel additive can cause inaccurate fuel level readings in modern fuel injection systems.
How To Clean A Gas Tank On A Motorcycle
Symptoms of a clogged fuel filter include: difficulty starting, hesitation, hesitation, knocking in reverse, loss of power when accelerating, poor fuel efficiency, and/or engine misfiring. And if you plan to store your car for months at a time, consider adding fuel to the tank. This will help keep the fuel fresh by preventing fuel from separating in the tank.
How To Clean A Fuel Tank And Protect Your Newly Installed Fuel Pump
If you are replacing the fuel pump, consider cleaning the fuel tank to extend the life of the new fuel pump. We recommend pulling and removing the tank from the machine and following the steps below for the best cleaning method.
* For your convenience, Delphi Technologies Aftermarket offers a Fuel Tank Cleaning Kit (FC01) that includes a low water solution designed to easily treat and clean the 40 gallon fuel tank.
Dropping the fuel tank may not be a good option for someone with a saddle type fuel tank and/or 4WD, 4WD or rear wheel drive because the shaft gets in the way. And sometimes cleaning the exhaust just to get to the fuel tank can be more trouble than it’s worth. We know that not everyone can drain the tank, so we have created a new cleaning solution – the fuel tank cleaning line. Check it out!
**Please note: If the microfiber cleaner is heavily soiled after several wipes, the fuel tank must be discarded for deep cleaning or replaced.
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Find the Fuel Tank Cleaning Kit (FC01) and Fuel Tank Cleaning Stick (FC02) in our online catalog or contact your Delphi Technologies sales representative for more information.
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A fuel gauge that constantly reads full or empty, or has an erratic needle, could be the result of a faulty sensor or the fuel gauge itself. But first… Tired of changing fuel filters, cleaning carbs, or getting a neglected bike back on the road. You are still looking for a solution. I know this for a fact because I learned how to do it months ago because I was in dire straits just like you. I had a fuel tank that was leaking from the inside and it was a problem for my tank, fuel pump, carb and engine. Your service manual probably won’t tell you much about how to deal with a rusted fuel tank (“Take it off and put it back in” I’m guessing if it says something like that), but given that Can tanks are expensive and/or unavailable to be able to to be (and how colorful things outside often cost a lot of money!), you are doing the right thing by restoring yours.
So, as a motorcyclist who has been through a tank or two in his life, let me give you some food for thought, specs and some photos you might need. You might want to read the whole thing before you start.
How to clean a fuel tank Plan your work Explore business options Prepare the tank Add a chemical unloading machine and a machine Return (Remove!) Clean and do not damage the Seal (optional) Check your model.
Fuel System Maintenance
Each tank is different depending on the level of damage. I’ve seen tanks with bright rust and a concerned owner, and I’ve seen (and owned!) other fuel tanks that had more shells and scales than a Queen’s boat. Mary. The approach a person can take in these situations can be very different – or exactly the same.
At the center of my work is this tank from the 1964 Yamaha YG1 of Johnny Grieser, our New Guy brother. Chrome! That’s neat! Lemmy’s photo.
First, the removal and replacement is worth thinking about. I mention this because it’s a very viable option these days, especially with so many replacement options online. Spending a hundred or two hundred dollars on an aftermarket tank that you can handle and perform well is probably the smartest move. Also consider used tanks that may be in better shape than yours. And if your bike isn’t too old, heck, the dealer might have a new one on the shelf somewhere.
Older fatbobs tend to stay in service for a while because they were built to last. They’re not light, but for you to rust, you need to throw them in the ocean for decades. In general, the newer the bike, the thinner the steel in the interest of reducing weight and creating a complex tank shape. Lemmy’s photo.
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Also, consider the design of the tank. For example, older Harley-Davidson fatbob tanks have good durability rates due to the thick steel used in their construction. However, newer motorcycles generally have mild steel sides. If your tank is made of thin metal and the rust and corrosion inside is severe, it will be difficult and time-consuming to fix the problem. If your tank is damaged in any places, this could also be a sign that the tank is beyond saving, depending on your time and budget for the job.
This is clearly rare; a tank in this condition that might be considered junk for a high production bike could be the holy grail for a low production bike. The appearance of the tank also plays a part in this: the original paint helps the original bike maintain its quality. A motorcycle tank that is still in original production may be worth the effort just because of the quality that this part brings to the entire bike. Likewise, even a refinished paint job that isn’t so easy to make match the rest of the bike can cost a lot of money.
Once you’ve decided that a particular tank project is worth your time, money, and effort, it’s time to measure the damage. A flashlight, mirror, cell phone, and scope may come in handy at this time. Mild rust or scale problems are usually not that difficult to fix. Repairing severe holes, pits and/or missing metal will often require metal fabrication and body work. For the purposes of this article, we will assume that the integrity of your tank is intact, but if this is the case, additional surgery may be required – up to and including cutting the tank open for further inspection and repair.
This is where we start. It’s not the worst I’ve seen, but make no mistake, this tank needed some help a long, long time ago. Lemmy’s photo.
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The Johnny Greaser YG1 tank you see here has been neglected for almost 50 years and is good enough for me to compete with. It was bad. This is really bad. He’s not rotten, but he’s honestly one of the toughest tanks I’ve ever fought.
Most fuel tanks require a two-finger fork. The first part involves removing the heaviest rust, while the second involves finishing, possibly in preparation for installing a tank seal. In my experience, heavy deposits are best removed with a machine, and the final restoration is often chemically treated – although this is not always the case. (If you have your own methods, please feel free to include them!)
I put a borescope in the tank to see how much rust there was. It was average, although there were a few areas with thick dimensions and deposits. Lemmy’s photo.
For mechanical rust removal, I usually go with a scraper, something you can put in the tank to help remove scale by hand. Nuts and bolts are popular agitators and I know some people who use them
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