How To Attach Things To Car Ceiling – Sorry to hear you are facing the dreaded ‘Curse of Dropping Headlines’! Your friends in the back seat, the headlines combing. You have foam on your shirt before an important meeting. Can’t see anything in your rearview mirror. I’m not kidding, honestly.
But, I’m here to help you! Follow this photo tutorial to reassemble your header. It will cost you less than $50 and an hour or two of your time at most.
How To Attach Things To Car Ceiling
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It could also be called a safety hazard as I had an obstructed view from the rear window…
Ideally you solve this problem by re-pasting the headers as described below. If gluing isn’t your cup of tea, my next recommendation is the button method. This cheap and easy solution looks much better than press-on masks and will last better.
You really want to use 3M headliner glue. It’s quite expensive, but worth it. Inexpensive adhesives will wear out over time, especially in heat.
If you don’t need to do the whole header will be enough. If you want to re-glue the whole thing, you’ll need 2 cans.
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The main shield was loose in the back and some patches were loose in the front as well. So the first step was to remove the dome light. Use a flat blade screwdriver to pry between the clear part and the opaque plastic and pop the lens out.
The dome light housing will pop out when you lightly pry it with a flathead screwdriver. Don’t pull it right away, it has a power cord running through it that needs to be released first.
Next, disconnect the power cable that goes to the light house. Note that it has a small tab that needs to be pushed down to remove.
At this point, you have a decision to make, should you remove the rest of the plastic parts from the ceiling such as handles and the like? It really depends on how severe the problem is with dropping the material. If it’s loose around these parts, it’s probably best to remove them as well. In my case, the fabric still held in those areas, so I left them.
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However, the amount of headliner fabric to re-cover your ceiling is about 2 cu. yds (72″ x 60″) or 3 cu. yds (95″ x 60″) if you have a convertible top.
The next step is to pull the headliner far enough that you can reach all the areas where you need to spray the glue. If it is firmly stuck somewhere,
Note: You should be able to spray the adhesive with the can from 4″ to 8″ away from the surface you are trying to glue. Spraying more glue than that will cause it to clump up like Silly-String and not stay together.
This way I pulled my headliner down so I could reach far enough to spray glue on all the loose areas.
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Be gentle when removing the fabric around the post. You don’t want to stretch or tear it.
Well, at this point, things can get a little messy. Use an old sheet or tarp, and spread it over the seat to prevent as much dust and overspray as possible.
This will not allow the glue to adhere well, so scrape it off with your finger to remove as much as possible.
Once the fabric is clean, we are ready to start spraying the glue. A few notes to make things work better for you:
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Okay, ready? lets do it. The spray is quite strong, so be sure to work in a well-ventilated area and wear a breathing mask if possible. Roll down the window or open the door too.
Take your can of header glue and spray about 6 inches worth of headgear, then let it set for 5 minutes.
Next, use a clean paint roller to press the cotton into place, working from the bottom, front to back.
Once it looks good, spray another 6 inches or so, let it set for 5 minutes, then press it down with a roller.
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I used a small paint roller around the edges where there was more of a curve.
Keep doing this until you come back. Then, use a piece of cardboard to catch the overspray and press it into place with the roller.
Near the partition, use a thin putty knife or credit card to press the awning into place behind the plastic.
I got a little spray adhesive on the plastic post…it was hard to get off, so try to avoid that if possible!
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Caution along the trailing edge. If it doesn’t line up perfectly, don’t be tempted to pull it out and try again, it won’t work! This will show how well you did at sliding the headers in front.
This includes installing buttons on the ceiling to hold the headliner. It will take you about 30-45 minutes to install the buttons and then you will have a more permanent solution. Ready to try it?
Kit contains 60 pins and 60 buttons. Start by placing the pins in the middle of the falling headliner so you have an equal amount of sag on both sides. This will ensure that the header is not crooked!
Once you’ve got a row of pins down the center of the ceiling, work outwards with the pins until the entire headliner is more or less in place.
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Once you are satisfied that you have enough header material on both sides and that one side is not shorter than the other, go ahead and start installing the buttons.
The buttons work by screwing screws into the hard foam on top of the headliner. Use a Phillips screwdriver.
Tighten the screw until it’s nice and smooth, but don’t strip it, or it won’t hold tightly. It’s very easy to get a feel for where this point is after you’ve made a pair.
Then remove the pins. Note that the pins leave a small hole. The holes aren’t that obvious once they’ve been out for a while, but if you’re worried about that, install the buttons where the pins were.
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I recommend installing the buttons about 6-8 inches apart. A fabric measuring tape is included in the kit.
Also, a template must be made ahead of time and measured so that the buttons can be installed evenly.
After installing most of your buttons, click the header on the back of the trim with a credit card (finally, using a premium golf membership!) Let’s say you go out this holiday season and get a Christmas tree that looks like something out of Griswold. level shit. Or you have an old-school, 17-foot aluminum canoe. Or you like surfing. Or you take your crappy old mattress to the dump after you couldn’t unload it on some guy on Craigslist. No matter how big your car is, you can’t fit any of these things. No, you’ll want to tie these things to your roof.
But when you install equipment on your roof, make sure you do it right. A US government study found that in 2010, about 51,000 accidents, 10,000 injuries and 440 deaths were caused by objects falling from other vehicles, and you don’t want to contribute to those kinds of statistics. That’s why we spoke to Johnny Wood – one of four Yakima’s “road warriors” who travel the US teaching the public how to properly store their vehicles – and some advice on how to properly secure cargo on the roof of the car. I wanted
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Wood recommends a webbing strap with a tightening strap that doesn’t use a ratchet system. According to Wood, compression systems “apply a significant amount of crushing force to whatever you’re moving, so you can go above and beyond what’s necessary both in terms of what you’re carrying and the vehicle itself.” If you go for rachis, just be careful how tight you are. Wood also advises against bungee cords, as they tend to bend when driving at speed and loads move and possibly escape. Nylon rope also works, but be prepared to tie trucker’s knots.
“There are really three types of situations for your roof,” Wood said. “There’s a scenario where you don’t have anything on the roof. Then there’s a scenario where you have side rails and then a scenario where you have side rails and crossbars.” Wood says side rails and crossbars are ideal, but you can move what you need without them. In the case of an open roof, you must loop the rope through the vehicle (through the door,
Window) and around objects on the roof and a towel
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