How Long To Charge Motorcycle Battery – If you’re reading this article, your bike hasn’t started yet, and you can’t ride for at least a few hours, and I’m sorry. However, we hope to be able to get you up and running soon. Charging your motorcycle battery isn’t difficult, but there are a few things you can do to make sure you’re successful. Let’s get to work!
How to Charge a Battery Understand how each battery will accept a charge Determine the type of battery construction Choose the right charger Remove the battery Charge! Reinstall the battery Check the electrical system to determine the cause of the battery failure Step 1. Change your expectations
How Long To Charge Motorcycle Battery
I don’t like you going off that road at a moment’s notice. In some cases, batteries can be brought back from the dead, but even if they can be saved, they are permanently and irreparably damaged by the rapid discharging and charging that you can try. Expect to buy a new battery, and if yours can be saved, consider it odd.
Lithium Motorcycle Batteries: Myths Vs Realities
Here you can see the internal components of a lead acid battery. The front guide plate is detached. That chamber is completely filled with acid, and the resulting chemical energy is converted into electrical energy. Caution: do not disassemble the battery to see the type of construction. Photo.
Lead acid, carpet (AGM) and gel batteries can be charged normally. Lithium-based batteries (lithium-ion, lithium-ferro, lithium phosphate, etc.) require special chargers depending on the manufacturer, which brings us to the next step.
There are several types of chargers. The simplest type is a wall charger, which converts AC power from your wall outlet to DC, then blindly throws it at your battery until it dies. Note that this type of charger must be monitored during charging. This phrase came from the same way, so you may see these called “full electric”.
This battery source is based on the COO engine. If he has one, maybe you should too. Photo.
V5ah Charging Motorcycle Battery
“Floating chargers” are the other type of charger. Modern electronics detect the battery and turn it on and off automatically to keep the battery power level at the optimum level. (If you don’t have and use one of those, it’s probably a big part of why your battery is dead. Tender Junior batteries are cheaper than new batteries in most cases. Just saying.)
On the left is a floating charger, which has a circuit that monitors the state of the battery. You may hear standard chargers also referred to as “dumb” chargers, as they do not include a desulfation system. Despite the pejorative name, it is a good charger for most types of battery construction. On the right is my old flow charger. Instead of relying on circuitry, the fail-safe here is the user’s eye. Each type has its place (although a trickle charger is unnecessary if you have – and use – a floating charger!) Photo by Lemmy.
The last type of charger is a smart sensor, which monitors the current of the battery. Usually, they will charge different prices to minimize battery damage. These often have what is called “desulphation”, which is usually used to remove sulfur from the front plates inside the battery. It usually works with different voltages and “electrical currents”.
Many times these smart batteries cannot be powered by lithium batteries. The problem is that chemically, lithium batteries are different from their lead counterparts, and many have cruise control systems that can’t handle pulsing. Refer to your battery to guide you with the type of battery, as not all brands can be treated the same.
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Electric motors generally have different types of conductors. Some are constant on bikes, like left turns. I use one of these for each of my bikes, but I also keep a few in clip-on form to charge the battery on the bike. It’s also great for friends who need to borrow a charger. Photo.
All chargers are available in a variety of charging amperage ratings. Higher amperage charging is faster, but is more stressful on the battery and ultimately worse for longevity.
Also note that many types of chargers have built-in circuitry to prevent the charger from using electricity for anything other than the battery, so if the battery is low on juice, a floating or smart charger will not be able to charge the battery. In these cases, it may help to start charging with a normal “dumb” test until the battery voltage is high enough for the floating card to “find” the battery voltage. Note that two chargers should not be connected at the same time. While most people are better served by floating chargers to avoid something happening to the battery first, electric chargers still have a place in the motorcycle world.
It is a pain to remove the battery from the bike. You’ll see a lot of people hooking up a battery charger and a battery to the bike, but I caution against this for a few reasons.
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First, by removing the battery, disconnect the electrical system. Bad batteries are less of a problem. A blown fuse, melted metal or fried ECU is not. A single power supply is ideal for this purpose. If the battery is discharged from the bike, it is not replaced by hitting the mains.
Remove that battery to charge it! While not absolutely necessary, it’s a good precaution when putting money into a potentially dead battery. Photo.
Removing the battery is also a good idea because the temperature of the battery changes while it is being charged. The chemicals appear inside the battery, and the reaction is exothermic – it releases heat! The solution inside the battery can also boil and melt the battery in extreme cases. The resulting acid will damage paint, metal and rubber – anything on a motorcycle can be seriously damaged by sulfuric acid. If the battery comes off the bike and is in the tray, your bike will still be in good condition even if the battery melts completely while charging.
If you’re thinking about the flat charger we talked about earlier, that’s another thing. The amount of electricity needed to maintain a battery is much less than the amount needed to charge it when it is charged. In these situations, using the power bank to charge your floating charger while on the bike is perfect.
How To Charge A Motorcycle Battery
If you’re not sure how to remove the battery, we have an article on that to help you do it right.
If your bike is in the garage, take it outside or ride it to work. Charging the battery produces hydrogen gas, which is highly flammable. In excess, if it does, it will produce hydrogen sulfide, which is super bad for you.
Some electronics can “tell” when they’re wired incorrectly, but most good ones can’t. If you connect the charger to the wrong phone, you’ll screw things up. Make sure the charger plug is firmly connected to the battery. If electricity can “arc” between the phone and the conductor, the arc can damage the contact and the conductor. (They will look like they have a weld on them.)
I dig this charger because it always shows the battery life and if things start to go south, you know when your bike is lying in the garage, not 100 miles from home. Photo.
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Once you are sure it is securely attached, plug it into the charger. If you’re using a wireless charger, get out and check on that baby and test it regularly to see how it’s charging. .
If it is still “bad”, do not rush to turn on the bike and use it. This worked fine 40 years ago, but modern bikes have fuel pumps, injectors, computers, sensors…all the electrical components are simple. Trying to use them with a bad battery puts them at risk of damage, knocking out the charging system and putting you at risk of crashing who-knows-where. And if you thought a new battery was expensive, see what your mechanic charges to replace the stator and voltage regulator.
Once your charger says you’re ready, turn on the charger. Reinstall the battery and secure it. Then put the good thread and after that, the bad. .
If only your bike
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